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French Polynesia
From the deck of your private bungalow you watch the multicoloured fish swimming through the lagoon as you sip your cocktail and relax after your shredded coconut and hibiscus flower body scrub. French Polynesia has perfected the art of seductive decadence. Text and photography by Leandro Ming.
The 118 islands of French Polynesia were born from volcanoes over 20 million years ago. The Polynesians settled there from around AD300 with the remoteness of the islands keeping the people insulated from the rest of the world until European world travel began.
Spanish explorers discovered the Marquesas Islands in 1595. However, real contact between the Polynesians and European explorers did not begin until the discovery of Tahiti by Englishman Samuel Wallis in 1767. This contact resulted in an immense upheaval of the economic and social structure of the Polynesians. The relaxed nature of the locals and the characterisation of the island as a paradise impressed early European visitors, planting the seed for a romanticisation that endures to this day. Tahiti was completely unique, so much so that French artist Paul Gauguin devoted much of his career to portraying its exoticism. Unfortunately, European visitors brought a host of Western problems with them, too, such as prostitution, alcohol and venereal diseases. The Christianisation by missionaries also resulted in a mass abandonment of traditional religious practices and places of worship.
After decades of rivalries between Britain and France over the ownership of Tahiti, France declared the islands as a protectorate in 1843 and a colony in 1880. In 1946, the islands were declared to be an overseas territory of France. A decree by France allowed the Polynesians to manage their own public matters, while still maintaining institutional control. A law passed on September 6, 1984, began the first real move toward autonomy for French Polynesia. The statute recognised the identity of French Polynesia, allowing it distinctions such as flag and national anthem. The position of President was established, which placed local control of government.
Today, French Polynesia is largely responsible for its own affairs, with some responsibilities remaining with France, such as justice, education, security and defence.
The relationship between France and French Polynesia has had many tense moments. The French Polynesian Mururoa atoll made news in September 1995 when France caused extensive protests by resuming nuclear testing after a three-year moratorium. The last test was on January 27, 1996. Two days later, France announced it would no longer test nuclear weapons. There is also a strong independence movement in French Polynesia, spearheaded by the former President Oscar Temaru.
LOCATION
The islands of French Polynesia are located halfway between Australia and the Americas: 4,965 kilometres (3,085 miles) east of Sydney and 5,977 kilometres (3,714 miles) southwest of Los Angeles. French Polynesia comprises one coral archipelago and four volcanic archipelagos, whose high islands, with the exception of the Marquesas, are surrounded by regular coral reefs cut by underwater passes. Another way to imagine them is like this: there’s 4,167 square kilometres of land and it’s scattered over more than 2.5 million kilometres of ocean.
The volcanic Society Islands are divided into Windward and Leeward islands. Volcanic islands have points that can reach several thousand metres. The Windward Islands, the most populated, include the islands of Tahiti, Moorea, Maiao and Mehetia, as well as the atoll of Tetiaroa. The Leeward Island, more than 200km west of Tahiti, include the islands of Raiatea (the largest), Bora Bora, Maupiti, Huahine and Tahaa.
French Polynesia enjoys warm, tropical weather year round. Cooled by the gentle breezes of the Pacific, the climate is sunny and pleasant but never overbearing. Roughly speaking, there are two distinct seasons: November to April is warmer and more humid, while May to October is cooler and enjoys little rain.
YOUR DOLLAR
One Australian dollar converts to 73.5 Comptoirs Français du Pacifique Francs (CFP). You can convert travellers’ cheques and cash on the island but not at a very competitive rate. It’s best to take CFP with you from your destination and use your credit card as much as possible. Banks provide the best exchange rate and are located at Faa’a International Airport and on most islands. But it’s important to be organised – hotels give a less favourable rate, depending on which island you go to, and there might not be a bank there so it’s not worth the hassle. Major credit cards are accepted at hotels, most restaurants and shops on the larger islands. However, you might find that credit cards are not widely accepted on smaller islands.
THE LITTLE THINGS - BE PREPARED
Because the majority of luxury consumer items such as sunscreen, batteries, videotape, film and tennis balls are imported, they are expensive in French Polynesia. A bottle of sunscreen can easily cost $25 in stores. Pack these sorts of items and save your cash for more exciting things – like the sensational cocktails the hotels and bars whip up.
Most hotels have 220-volt systems for appliances such as clippers and electric razors so an adapter kit will usually be needed. These can be found at the airport when you arrive.
No vaccines are needed to travel to Tahiti but you may still need medication if you become ill. Even though chemists sell the same medications you find in Western cities, it’s wiser to bring what you might need before leaving your country.
Not many clothes are needed but make sure you pack some sexy swimwear, light cottons for the beach and something suitable for boat excursions. It might rain at night so some quick drying clothing wouldn’t go astray. As the sun is strong in the South Pacific, a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen (definitely 30+) are a must.
EATING OUT
Food tends to be expensive in French Polynesia as most products are imported from the US and New Zealand. Some of the islands have virtually no restaurants outside the hotels. However, Moorea, Bora Bora and Tahiti each have several good restaurants located in the main street of the local village. These range in service from small, simple, family-owned businesses to large, elegant dining rooms. In many cases, the restaurants outside the hotels are less expensive than the resorts and offer excellent local food selection.
Breakfast can range from $5 per person for a croissant and coffee to $25 per person for a large, buffet breakfast. A five-course diner for two costs about $75 excluding wines on Moorea or Tahiti and about $85 on Bora Bora, which is considered the most expensive of the islands. Prices include tax and tipping is not expected. Of course, there are many less expensive options available but these prices will serve as a guideline if dining in a popular local restaurant.
CULTURE
The Tahitians live very simply on their land, in huts with rooves made out of palm tree leaves. They have all the land to themselves and pay no tax. The main language spoken is French. Polynesian is spoken at home but not taught at school. These days, because of the abundance of tourism on most islands, English is widely spoken, too.
The art of the tattoo originates in the Polynesian Islands and remains a significant part of Polynesian culture today. Tattoos signify beauty and are demanded by social custom. They are considered more important for men than women. This inking art dates back hundreds and the traditional designs have their own specific meanings and place in the cultural and social hierarchy. The tattooers themselves are specialist and enjoy the prestige of being regarded as artists. Traditionally, they used combs made of bone or tortoiseshell with sharp teeth fixed onto a handle to pierce the skin, forcing it in with a mallet. Oily fruit was placed on skewers and burned to obtain soot for colouring. These days electric machine are used.
The first European missionaries brought Tahitian art back to Western societies nearly 200 years ago. Today, the Tahitian art style has evolved and is used not only found in tattoos but also in jewellery, furniture and other art forms. There are plenty of Polynesian artefacts and local artworks to buy and they make great tribal decorations.
French Polynesia is one of the few places in the world where cultured black pearls are grown. They can make a unique and exquisite souvenir. The pearls’ marvellous colours range from silvery-grey through to deep greens iridescent with pink, gold and blue to the darkest black. The infinite ranges of shades are produced by the Pinctada margaritifera, an oyster species common in Polynesia that lives in the pure lagoon waters. There are shops on every island, but the cheapest way the acquire such beauties is on the black market run by local families. This is, of course, not legal but the difference in price is huge. The black pearls can then be mounted at your leisure and definitely look sexy on a man.
HUAHINE
Arguably the most picturesque of all the French Polynesian islands, Huahine is a great destination. It is less exploited by tourism than other islands and has retained its natural beauty. The island, situated 175km northwest of Tahitian capital Papeete, has a great history. “Hua” translates to sex and “hine” means women. Huahine’s locals have a god called Hiro whose standout feature is his enormous cock. Needless to say, there’s a lot of sexual energy on the island. You can even see a mountain that looks like him lying with an erection from certain places. Huahine has been inhabited since 850 AD. The population is around 6,000 people.
THINGS TO DO
While driving, cycling or walking around the lush tropical forests, you can pick fruit from the trees and eat as you discover the attractions of the islands – and there are many. Leisure activities such as game fishing, scuba diving, water skiing and wake boarding are abundant and are carried out in one of the most spectacular coral reefs in the world. It’s easy to book adventure tours and you’re guaranteed to have a lot of fun. Lounging around on one of the stunning beaches is a given and if you’re staying at one of the many exclusive five-star hotels, you’ll have a host of arranged activities available and most likely a fully stocked bar complete with skilled bartender and an amazing view. It’s easy to see why Gauguin was so enamoured. After all these years, Tahiti is still a paradise.
To discover gay Tahiti visit www.tahitinow.com.au/about-tahiti/gaytahiti
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